Angelom 7 Report post Posted April 12, 2014 So, I fitted two new tyres today for our trip, and at the same time had all wheels balanced, re-inflated with nitrogen and had wheel alignment checked/done. Heres the report they gave me... I think they only adjusted toe, I think they said camber not adjustable. As I can see according to measurements and specifications, the camber does seem to be way out? What's the cause for this and how do I rectify it? Control arms? If at first you do succeed, don't look too surprised Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted April 13, 2014 Bad news I'm afraid, your before figures were better for the car. AND they've used the figures for a standard suspension, not the sportpack suspension a Selespeed would be fitted with. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angelom 7 Report post Posted April 13, 2014 (edited) Only seeing your post now Smaky, you talking about the toe? I don't really understand the printout or specs, diff between toe and camber. Also noticed that the car is pulling to the left now. And when braking from high speeds, I seem to hear a slight humming sound from the left front wheel, dead sure it wasn't there before I took the car in. So there should be another setting/specification for the selespeed? Will phone them tomorrow and hear if I can take it back. You dont perhaps have a printout of a car that is set up right? Pretty please? If at first you do succeed, don't look too surprised Edited April 13, 2014 by Angelom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted April 13, 2014 All setings done unladen and a full tank of fuel. front Toe - 0 degrees camber - -0.49 - -1.29 degrees castor - 3.33 - 4.55 degrees rear toe - 0 degrees camber - 1.9 degrees castor - 4.3 degrees On both front a rear the caber and castor are NOT adjustable. And sorry to say, your before settings were spot on and they've adjusted out of limits. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angelom 7 Report post Posted April 13, 2014 Smaky, so if the toe should be 0 degrees, isn't -0.02 (front) closer to 0 than the -0.14 and 0.12 that it used to be? If at first you do succeed, don't look too surprised Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angelom 7 Report post Posted April 13, 2014 How do I correct the camber on front and rear? If at first you do succeed, don't look too surprised Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted April 13, 2014 If they'd have just rocked the car the figures could have done that and 10 minutes of a degree will have no difference on the way the car feels to you, castor and camber can only be sorted by realigning the subframe and replacing the arm bushes, a lot of work to hope it gets some figures in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angelom 7 Report post Posted April 14, 2014 So what do you suggest? Just leave it as is? Will I sacrifice more tread wear than normal? If at first you do succeed, don't look too surprised Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted April 14, 2014 Just leave it. But next time all 4 wishbones are replaced, if you have it checked then you'll find it's miles out the other way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites