gorge1982 0 Report post Posted October 18, 2012 Morning. Have posted this question on another forum, and didn't get much help. Have noticed over the last month or so, that when my 2007 147 gears up or down, that there is a rattle in the change process. It's most evident when gearing down from gear two to one, when stopping at lights. Is this something that I should stop driving the car right now, or is fine to drive on for the few thousand kms until my next scheduled service? Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bigdar 62 Report post Posted October 18, 2012 As you're probably aware, you need smaky. I'm sure he'll help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted October 19, 2012 It it's a grinding clunk when it goes from 2nd to 1st then the first 2 things I would do are drain and replace the gearbox oil, examaning the mag plug for debris, then check the clutch rod length, adjust it back to 28 - 28.5 mm (lower end is better) and recalibrate the system, but if it's been doing this a while the it may require the 1st gear and synshro replacing, but they will go on for years in this condition, the only thing really to do is adapt your driving so you come to a halt and allow it to select 1st while at stand still and don't manually select it from 2nd to 1st. It's not right but short of rebuilding the gearbox there's no way round this. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Devious 4 Report post Posted October 19, 2012 Smaky, do you physically have to adjust the rod? If so where is it found and is there a how to guide? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted October 19, 2012 (edited) At some time everyone here with a Selespeed will need to adjust the clutch release rod on the actuator if you sevice the car yourself. Now I've searched the forum and there is no guide, so today I shall demonstrate and SHOW you where this adjustment is made and how it is measured. 1, Load up Examiner or Alfadiag and select the "Selespeed" ECU, connect and then go to the "Sensor" tab, in the drop down menu select "Clutch Adjustment Position" and check the position on the graph. If it is outside of 28 - 28.5mm then continue, otherwise your done. 2, Remove the battery and tray to gain access to the actuator. 3, Slide the cover off the clutch release actuating rod and loosen the 10mm locknut. 4, Connect the battery via jump leads and turn the key to MAR, connect with Alfadiag or Examiner again. 5, Now to adjust the rod you hold the piston still and rotate the larger 19mm rod, out to increase the length of corse. Watch the display as you do it to ensure you don't go too far, when it'sin limits lock off the 10mm nut and refit the dust cover 6, Now click the "Actuators" tab and select "Calibration Routines", Bleed the clutch and then run the EOL Auto adjust. You'll hear a lot of whiring and clunking, that's normal, just keep your fingers out of the way. 7, When that finishes sucessfully, rebuild the car and reset your clock. Attached Thumbnails Please note that the procedure of adjustment is the same with MultiECUScan, just the computer display will differ. Edited October 19, 2012 by Smaky Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Devious 4 Report post Posted October 19, 2012 I found your original post. Thanks smaky Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gorge1982 0 Report post Posted October 20, 2012 Did the adjustment myself today. Was quite a fiddly task, but car is most definitely running better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted October 20, 2012 Yeah if it comes back then your looking at the bigger jobs, but I think this should sort it, still I'd replace the gear oil as I bet it's never been done....2L of 75-90 OR EP90. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gorge1982 0 Report post Posted October 25, 2012 Yeah if it comes back then your looking at the bigger jobs, but I think this should sort it, still I'd replace the gear oil as I bet it's never been done....2L of 75-90 OR EP90. Thanks Smaky. Is there a particular way to drain the fluid, like a plug that is disconnected? Or it it done through the cap where it's poured originally? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted October 25, 2012 (edited) Thanks Smaky. Is there a particular way to drain the fluid, like a plug that is disconnected? Or it it done through the cap where it's poured originally? OK, stop there. The cap in the wing is the HYDRAULIC fluid (CS Speed) which is used by the actuation system to do the selecting. GEARBOX oil (75/90 or EP90) goes into the gearbox through the fill hole in the front (12mm allen), it is drained through a 12mm magnetic allen plug under the left hand side of the gearbox. DO NOT MIX THESE FUIDS OR POUR THEM INTO THE WRONG PART OF THE CAR. Edited October 26, 2012 by Smaky Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gorge1982 0 Report post Posted October 26, 2012 OK, stop there. The cap in the wing is the HYDRAULIC fluid (CS Speed) which is used by the acuation system to do the selecting. GEARBOX oil (75/90 or EP90) goes into the gearbox through the fill hole in the front (12mm allen), it is drained through a 12mm magnetic allen plug under the left hand side of the gearbox. DO NOT MIX THESE FUIDS OR POUR THEM INTO THE WRONG PART OF THE CAR. Will do. Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites