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Davo

P1703 Error - Engine Or Sele Fault?

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Just had an interesting one - daughter was driving her 147 TS Sele and rang saying the car had stopped in traffic: the engine had turned off with a displayed error saying "engine oil low". She managed to get it running once and pulled over...

 

On arrival 10 minutes later I checked the oil and it was fine, engine started and all was good so I drove it home with no issues and plugged in FES - had the following error;

 

P1703 Engine switch off by A/T. No signal to ECU from sensor

 

Am I right that "A/T" means automatic transmission - i.e. a sensor in the sele dropping out and causing the engine ECU to shown things down? There was no indication of which sensor had caused the problem and lots of shifting at rest and driving around the block has not caused the error to reappear.

 

I can't imagine the oil system is the culprit.....

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Have you checked the gearbox ecu for fault codes?

 

P1703 though would meand a loose plug at either the throttle pedal or throttle body causing a lossof signal, A/T = Auto Throttle

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Bang on the money mate - here were the errors lurking on the Sele ECU

 

P1743 Clutch Sensor (high signal)

P0725 Engine Speed (no signal)

 

seleerrors.jpg

http://imageshack.us.../seleerrors.jpg

 

I did check and clean the brake switch connector and the throttle body connector as well. Looks like I need to find the clutch sensor now....

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OK so during the week daughter had a third engine stop - just the P0725 error on the gearbox ECU this time so glad I picked up the new crank sensor in my travels.

 

Installed no problems - made sure to check the old o-ring came out, lead routing is fine and connector intact and clean. Perfect idle from start, took her for a 20 minute blast around the neighbourhood with no problems and handed over to daughter with instructions to try and break it. Well it only took her one minute and 300 metres before I got the call!! Retrieved car hooked up FES and had the same P0725 error.....

 

Cleared the error, checked the sensor and cable fit, hit the connector with my magic clean & lube spray and have been running the car on lots of short trips all day but I certainly can't get it to break.... According to daughter it only happens after she has been waiting at lights or intersections starting in first gear. Gut feeling is that this none is going to come back but fingers crossed....

 

BTW, is there any reset or calibration procedure I should do with the new sensor? (just grabbing at straws....)

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Update; still no engine failure but getting a handful of "Selespeed Failure" warnings while driving at speed (no apparent problems shifting / no flashing gear numbers) but perhaps a few "rough" gear changes??

 

Gearbox ECU showing P1743 Clutch Sensor (high signal) received at speed so this looks like the next move (knew I should have picked up one of these at the same time as the crank sensor!!)

 

Cheers,

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Remove the clutch speed sensor from the front of the gearbox and visually examine it, 22mm deep socket required, red socket on brass sensor, if the end is chewed up then we're looking at internal gearbox failure, if not then you either have the extremely rare sensor failure or possibly clutch EV fail, though at this point I wouldn't rule out accumulator or pump failing.

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Just pulled the sensor and it is clean and undamaged - reading 1122 ohms. I cleaned the connectors and will take for a blast now. I did notice one of the Sele failure warnings coincided with hitting a large pothole, although the others were while cruising on a flat stretch, so I'll aim for some rough roads!

 

I had assumed P1743 was the clutch position sensor (potentiometer) on the actuator - seems to be the focus on lots of similar Sele threads? Is this worth a shot perhaps - could easily swap with another pot on the actuator to rule out??

 

The pump sound and timing remains unchanged and the pressure looks OK at 42 - 55 while driving (i.e. gut feel is that the hydraulic side is hanging in there....)

 

I figure I'm looking at a new clutch speed sensor and perhaps a Sele pot sensor for insurance?

 

Thanks as always for the excellent help To get this sorted :)

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It's not going to bethe clutch sensor, it's reading OK, the pot is a rare failure on the clutch side too, BUT the EV next to the pressure sensor has caused this a lot, but also hitting pot holes is a clue, massive vibration allowing connectors to break the circuit is the most likely cause.

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.....and I'm back to where I was a week ago! I do a crazy 30 minute run with no problems then Daughter went for a sedate 20km run and had a single engine shut down taking off in first from lights (engine oil + selespeed faults on the dash) - engine ECU reports the P1703 engine shutoff and Sele ECU only has the P0725 "engine speed" error (i.e. guessing both are secondary to the root cause).

 

TBH the vibration thing only happened once and didn't show with LOTS of rough driving today - I have cleaned and checked every connector and earth on the sele recently - surely this has to be related to clutch operation to only happen on takeoff from standstill?

 

The previous owner had the actuator replaced with a "checked" second hand one (installed by a reputable garage) about 2 - 3 years back and I had a couple of month's troubleshooting earlier this year that was focussed on the 20 pin connector. I get the feeling I'll be e-mailing EB Spares to price up a new actuator soon (unless you can suggest some last minute "magic"....).

 

Cheers,

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One more new symptom this morning: shuffling the home carpark around I noticed the 147 was acting like a normal automatic - "normal" in that the clutch was semi-engaged as soon as first was selected and the car crept forward.... no dash errors and it didn't want to engage reverse in the 30 seconds of testing I managed before heading off to work (in the GTV :))

 

Fits with the clutch theories of course (BTW new clutch fitted18 months ago)...

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So replacement actuators are on backorder to the factory apparently so my fantasy to just spend a couple of thousand and get this sorted have evaporated!!

 

Back to fixing this one - with the latest clutch dragging symptom (which disappeared today) I figure that must back up the stuffed EV theory - is it in any way serviceable and can anything be gained by popping it out and cleaning + a good look at the sensors and wiring while I'm in there??

 

(ps: Wife will kill me if the daughter gets stranded somewhere in the middle of the night :()

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Do not replace the actuator, the latest symptom there would lead me to swap the clutch solenoid, which is mounted just forward of the input rod access hole, part # 71753760 £275, or I have some lying around.

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Not many individual solenoids available in this part of the world (even the scrappies don't have any left!!). Looks like Alfaworkshop have some so I'll have to wait for delivery ex UK....

 

The car is pretty much un-driveable now, dropping out of 1st and reverse into Neutral - no return of the clutch dragging - but at least that means when I get the fix it will show straight away rather than after 30 minutes of driving! Might keep busy on the weekend and drop out the clutch position sensor for a clean + inspect just for fun :)

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Don't order anything yet,

 

This is all change, if it is now doing this then it is NOT that solenoid, this is more conducent of an accumulator failure...how often does the pump prime when the ignition is at MAR?

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Dead cold engine - no use for 24 hours;

 

Open door - 10 second prime

switch to MAR - 2 second prime

4.30 minutes - 2 second prime

11.00 minutes - 2 second prime

17.30 minutes - 2 second prime

 

engage 1st and cycle through gears - 2 second prime every second change

 

(this has not changed in the 18 months I've had the car - FES has always shown pressure between 42 - 55 while driving or static gear changing - no difference in sound of the pump either)

 

start car - no problems holding 1st, 2nd and R (no dropping out of gear tonight - at least in the garage!)

 

newpicture1pngy.th.jpg

newpicturepng.th.jpg

Edited by Davo

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Dead cold engine - no use for 24 hours;

 

Open door - 10 second prime

switch to MAR - 2 second prime

4.30 minutes - 2 second prime

11.00 minutes - 2 second prime

17.30 minutes - 2 second prime

 

engage 1st and cycle through gears - 2 second prime every second change

 

(this has not changed in the 18 months I've had the car - FES has always shown pressure between 42 - 55 while driving or static gear changing - no difference in sound of the pump either)

 

start car - no problems holding 1st, 2nd and R (no dropping out of gear tonight - at least in the garage!)

 

newpicture1pngy.th.jpg

newpicturepng.th.jpg

 

 

Well that's all normal, so again warm up the engine then adjust the clutch rod to 28mm and run the EOL calibration.

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Warm adjust done: 28.1mm + EOL and no apparent issues cycling gears in the garage!!

 

Decided to have a look at the clutch sensor to keep busy - popped it out and it was reading around 700 ohms;

sensorbefore.jpg

 

Now the interesting bit: turn the pot and the resistance increases as expected but at the last couple of mm at the end of its range the resistance jumped up off the scale (as in open circuit), This was totally repeatable.

 

I pulled another sensor out and it had a definite range from 500 - 1200 ohms

 

Back to the clutch sensor - repeated cleaning with my magic contact spray and blowing the unit outresulted in about the same range as the second sensor and no open circuit at the end....

 

sensorafter.jpg

 

Put back together - no obvious problems - adjusted the rod - ran the cal:

 

newpicture2png.jpg

 

20 minutes of testing with lots of start / stops and she didn't miss a beat - I'll let the daughter use her "special skills" now to try and break it....

Edited by Davo

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Remove the clutch speed sensor from the front of the gearbox and visually examine it, 22mm deep socket required, red socket on brass sensor, if the end is chewed up then we're looking at internal gearbox failure, if not then you either have the extremely rare sensor failure or possibly clutch EV fail, though at this point I wouldn't rule out accumulator or pump failing.

 

Looks like you had one. :Star: :Star: :Star: :Star: :Star:

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Latest news and it's not good: It took three weeks for the new sensor to arrive and during that time the problems continued (occasional stall + multiple "Selespeed failure" warnings + dropping into neutral). Still had the suspect sensor so I figured this was expected.

 

New sensor (Marelli) tested much like the suspect one by reading open circuit at the very limit of movement - must be typical of the design assuming under normal operation the movement would not hit the mechanical limit of the sensor?? I cleared the expected P1473 and P0725 errors and fitted it no problems, adjusted clutch to 28.1 and calibrated. Nice smooth test runs all weekend and no issues for another two days.

 

Halloween arrives and the issues piled up! First came a stall while daughter was sitting in the driveway engine idling out of gear (complete with "oil low" message and took a few minutes before it could be started). She later had a "Sele failure" message then a drop into neutral while sitting at lights - flashing neutral and would not select first gear (car jerking). Switched off and everything back to normal.

 

I hooked up MES and had the full raft of errors: P1743, P0725, switch off by A/T etc. Cleared and calibrated then took her for a spin and finally managed to get a stall happen to me! Sele failure message / stall / oil low message / restart - and a new one: "LW174" on the display with the engine light on !!

 

I had MES running all the while and the hydraulic pressure was fine - the usual P1743, P0725 etc errors but nothing different to explain the LW174 ( which hasn't disappeared despite a few restarts...)

 

Not sure where to go from here but I'm getting really fast at whipping the battery tray out to get to the actuator!

Edited by Davo

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\ok, finally you have a description that fits a definate situatio. it's the solenoid on the O/S of the actuator just infront of the pinchbolt access, I suspect that the body of this solenoid will be heavily corroded and this has gone through and is pushing the magnets, jamming the armature, thus holding the pressure valve slightly open dumping pressure straight to return. Hence the fun of the stalls as the clutch dumps too fast and failing to select gears.

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So valve EV0 - clutch solenoid - yes?

 

http://img16.imagesh...e=dsc00227o.jpg

http://img16.imagesh...age=fotoev0.png

 

Makes sense considering the clutch must be involved to get the stalling I suppose.

 

BTW is that LW174 code familiar - I can't find anything referencing it?

 

Clutch solenoids are still like hen's teeth down-under, including wreckers....

Edited by Davo

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