147 Selespeed stuck in neutral

[twisted_pr 16]

Hi there,

 

My father (who lives 200 miles away) had previously complained of an intermittent fault with the 147 sele going into neutral and refusing to engage a gear. By the time the AA arrived the fault had cleared and he was able to drive home. The local Fiat/Alfa specialist plugged in a laptop and couldn't see any faults. After this problem happening a few more times (particularly after the engine had been running for 30mins or so) he gave up and left the car standing for the best part of a year.

 

Determined to rectify the fault, I set about with a new battery (previously the alternator had failed, leading to total power failure when driving, plus after being stood the battery was goosed) and a full version of FES. I couldn't make the fault reappear, and after adjusting the clutch rod (from just over 30mm) and topping up the sele fluid (maybe a little too much) all appeared to be good.

 

Well the bad news is that the fault is back, but the "good" news is that it has not cleared itself and I have been given some more info. Apparently the pump is not whirring when the door is opened or the ignition turned on. Plus the sele fluid was above max, with a small amount leaking out of breather pipe on the filler cap (probably me overfilling it?) Also, not sure if this is related but on engine start there is a slight "fan belt" type noise.

 

Any ideas?

 

It will probably be mid-June before I can have a look at the 147, so I would like to go down armed with a plan and any parts I might need.

 

Thanks in advance.

Phil.

[Smaky 73]

I would suggest you take a pump, a relay and a litre of CS Speed fluid as it sounds like the pump haS given up completely now. The original fault may have been the clutch rod too long which it sounds like you've sorted out. Also I'm guessing this car is in Cornwall?

[twisted_pr 16]

Close, she's in Torquay, Devon - "The English Riviera"

 

Thanks for the advice. I've got the CS fluid and my eye on a 2nd hand pump, but is it the red 30A relay that I need, or the black 50A one (or both)? She's a 52 plate if that helps?

 

If the exiting pump relay and pump work out fine, what's next on the checklist? Pressure monitoring re accumulator test/replacement?

[Smaky 73]

Close, she's in Torquay, Devon - "The English Riviera"

 

Thanks for the advice. I've got the CS fluid and my eye on a 2nd hand pump, but is it the red 30A relay that I need, or the black 50A one (or both)? She's a 52 plate if that helps?

 

If the exiting pump relay and pump work out fine, what's next on the checklist? Pressure monitoring re accumulator test/replacement?

 

There is also a fuse to check. But I'm sure it'll be a pump.

[Rrascal 0]

If you can make the fault happen again, try tapping the pump with a small hammer or a screwdriver handle. If the pump responds to this the problem will be the brushes in the pump motor. Either fit a second hand pump, or replace the brushes. Smaky has posted a 'how to' showing brush replacement.

[twisted_pr 16]

Thanks for the advice about tapping the motor with a hammer Rrascal. (Do you mean tapping in the normal sense or the Haynes Book of Lies sense - i.e. t**t it!? )

 

Following Smaky's advice (and guide) I've bought a couple of relays, along with a 2nd hand pump and a couple of sets of carbon brushes. So hopefully I'll be able to recreate the problem and find a solution.

 

I also purchased a new accumulator along with a 27mm spanner (which I shall modify as per Smaky's other excellent 'how to' ) Probably unnecessary, but as I'm so far away from the car and will have in bits anyway, I thought I may as well, just for peace of mind.

[Rrascal 0]

Tapping in the normal sense, not a Haynes bash with a sledgehammer... That technique got me going again several dozen times, until I stopped procrastinating and replaced the brushes. Hopefully that has sorted that particular problem. The accumulator replacement is a 20 minute job and well worth the effort, as it shifts so much better when it's working! Good luck with the 147!

[twisted_pr 16]

Thanks Rrascal. In addition to all the other bits I mentioned (most of which have arrived ) I've also bought some contact cleaner to have a go at the relay and 20 pin connectors by the battery/airpipe. Plus, as the problem kicks in when the engine gets hot I'm going to fabricate some kind of mini heat shield for the relay/20pin connector.

 

If after all that lot she still doesn't work I think I might , as my father has threatened to send her to the scrappy (with just 32k on the clock!) rather than let me buy her off him.

[Smaky 73]

Thanks Rrascal. In addition to all the other bits I mentioned (most of which have arrived ) I've also bought some contact cleaner to have a go at the relay and 20 pin connectors by the battery/airpipe. Plus, as the problem kicks in when the engine gets hot I'm going to fabricate some kind of mini heat shield for the relay/20pin connector.

 

If after all that lot she still doesn't work I think I might , as my father has threatened to send her to the scrappy (with just 32k on the clock!) rather than let me buy her off him.

 

Heat related issues are normally a solenoid on the actuator jamming.

[twisted_pr 16]

Oh, OK, thanks Smaky - will look out for that if the relay/pump/accumulator avenue fails. I just saw the shield someone had put together in the post about remaking the 20 pin connector and thought it was a good idea.

 

I reckon the issues on my Dad's car are more related to the increased running time giving more opportunity for the fault to occur, rather than any heat build up in the engine bay. I guess I'll find out at the weekend when I visit. Which reminds me, time to dig the Dremel out to grind down the open end of that 27mm spanner.

[twisted_pr 16]

Taptasic tip on tapping t'pump - ta.

 

Tested all connections, relays and fuses using a Power Probe and all was fine. Fed current down pump connector and no joy. Connected alternate pump and it worked. Reconnected old pump, still no joy, until I tapped it and it kicked in.

 

Now just take the pump out (any tips?) and follow Smaky's 'How to' re replacing brushes, then job done.

[Smaky 73]

Taptasic tip on tapping t'pump - ta.

 

Tested all connections, relays and fuses using a Power Probe and all was fine. Fed current down pump connector and no joy. Connected alternate pump and it worked. Reconnected old pump, still no joy, until I tapped it and it kicked in.

 

Now just take the pump out (any tips?) and follow Smaky's 'How to' re replacing brushes, then job done.

 

remove battery tray, disconnect the return hose from the actuator and collect the fluid in a bottle, disconnect the pressure line from the actuator, remove the cover panel, release the hose clamp on the engine mount, remove the reservoir cover, disconnect the pump plug, bend the plug bracket so the bolt is visible, remove the 2X 13mm bolts and #2 Phillips screw from the bracket, loosen the 7mm clamp round the reservoir, jiggle the bracket so it comes out.

[twisted_pr 16]

Thanks Smaky. All done & working as it should be. only slight snag is that I can't get one of the hose clips back on with a pair of pliers. Do I need a special tool (or am I just being one? )

[Smaky 73]

Thanks Smaky. All done & working as it should be. only slight snag is that I can't get one of the hose clips back on with a pair of pliers. Do I need a special tool (or am I just being one? )

 

Special R-Clic Pliers are advisable, but sometimes it's possible to do it with tin snips.

[twisted_pr 16]

Gave up in the end and found a suitably sized jubilee clip, using that instead. With the clip off the pipe I then found a technique using needle nose pliers, which was a bit hit and miss TBH. Am now back home, but will get some R-Clic pliers for the toolkit as I'm bound to need them at some point in the future - plus he who dies with the most tools wins

 

Thanks again for all your help Smaky. I now have a working Selespeed (that's cursed it ) and it's all down to you and the AD forum.