xyy81t 0 Report post Posted October 14, 2011 Does anybody know a method of testing the gear selector/clutch rod position sensors whilst they are off the car using a multi-meter. I.E. resistance range or linear graph throughout their movement? I'm having intermittent difficulty selecting gears and have a spare actuator with attached solenoids and sensors that i'd like to test before i swap them over tomorrow. the gearbox has been fine all this week but its due to pack up again. the problem occurs randomly ussually on the upshift to fourth, can't find fourth and then cant find anything and leaves the mrs stranded in traffic sat in neutral. RAC have brought it home 3 times now and a re-calibration and clutch rod adjustment seems to sort it for a while but it is not trust worthy for the 2 hour commute she endures every day. I'm hopeful that i'll find a perished O ring or something equally obvious but would like to rule out the sensors - I have nine of them so should have three working ones! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted October 15, 2011 I don't think you have a sensor issue, this sounds more like a pump or accumulator issue, if you have the software then watching the hyd pressure drop off time is the first thing I'd check then clutch rod length. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xyy81t 0 Report post Posted October 16, 2011 I don't think you have a sensor issue, this sounds more like a pump or accumulator issue, if you have the software then watching the hyd pressure drop off time is the first thing I'd check then clutch rod length. Yes have software - i found the info re-resistance figures for sensors and solenoids - all the solenoids are ok but only one of the six spare sensors i have was within 20 ohms of the specified 1200 ohms resistance. I have a spare accumulator too - what sort of drop-off time am i looking for to indicate accumulator probs and what indicates a dodgy pump? thanks for your help smaky Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted October 18, 2011 If the pump is priming every 20 secs then there's a problem Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. So chew on those apples! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xyy81t 0 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 so the mrs brought the 147 home last night so today i've been fidling. the pump primes and pressurises fine but i noticed the pressure slowly decreasing so i suspect it may be the pump. it also tops up the system after every gear change. so i thought i'd rip the pump out and see if i could spot anything obvious... you should be able to see in the pic below that there is some wear inside the pump so i guess this confirms the issue. although i don't understand why the problem is intermittent Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 so the mrs brought the 147 home last night so today i've been fidling. the pump primes and pressurises fine but i noticed the pressure slowly decreasing so i suspect it may be the pump. it also tops up the system after every gear change. so i thought i'd rip the pump out and see if i could spot anything obvious... you should be able to see in the pic below that there is some wear inside the pump so i guess this confirms the issue. although i don't understand why the problem is intermittent It's not the pump, those marks are normal when you strip down that section, but if it is priming after every change then it is either the accumulator (which I think I've mentioned before) or a leaky seal inside the actuator. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xyy81t 0 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 ok, .....urrr now tell me how it goes back together when you say seal are you talking about the O rings on the solenoids? Are these marks normal even if they have distinct depth to them and are only on one side of the housing? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 ok, .....urrr now tell me how it goes back together when you say seal are you talking about the O rings on the solenoids? Are these marks normal even if they have distinct depth to them and are only on one side of the housing? LOL, I was waiting for that, when you rebuild it the top plate goes on with the small (pressure) outlet on the same side as the motor wires. The distinct marks are normal even on one side, when I go that far on a pump I place adab of moly grease on the spindle ends before building the pump up, the screws are all torqued to 15N.m. or the pump siezes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xyy81t 0 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 i got that but the internals can go in either way (if you remove the gears) and i can't remember how they were when i took it apart! i got it back together before and it was pumping but had only 7BAR pressure so have turned them around and refitting now Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 Let's see how that goes... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 Let's see how that goes... If I'm not back in an hour it's because I'm doing radiator replacement and low speed breather change guides and just getting the pics. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xyy81t 0 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 Let's see how that goes... If I'm not back in an hour it's because I'm doing radiator replacement and low speed breather change guides and just getting the pics. Ok, well that worked! battery is weak now though after all my testing charger is on t whilst i put the battery tray back in. So.. the pump is ok, i accept that the accumulator needs replacing as it primes so often but would this cause the original issue too? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xyy81t 0 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 pump prime frequency is still the same with my spare accumulator on.. but it was second hand so could duff too i guess. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 pump prime frequency is still the same with my spare accumulator on.. but it was second hand so could duff too i guess. How long is it going between primes? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xyy81t 0 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 It does one gear change ok and then primes on the next. With no changes the pressure drops by about 1BAR every 10 seconds. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 It does one gear change ok and then primes on the next. With no changes the pressure drops by about 1BAR every 10 seconds. That drop wouldmean a reprime every 90 - 100 seconds, that is a bit too frequent, it MAY not be the accumulator but a dodgy seal on one of the EV valves or the clutch piston, but this will require a bay service of the actuator Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xyy81t 0 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 It does one gear change ok and then primes on the next. With no changes the pressure drops by about 1BAR every 10 seconds. That drop wouldmean a reprime every 90 - 100 seconds, that is a bit too frequent, it MAY not be the accumulator but a dodgy seal on one of the EV valves or the clutch piston, but this will require a bay service of the actuator whats a bay service? if its just replacing an O ring then i can do that myself? once the solenoids and other removable parts are stripped off the actuator, is there anything else inside that can fail or need renewing. i have stripped the old actuator and all the O rings look ok. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 It does one gear change ok and then primes on the next. With no changes the pressure drops by about 1BAR every 10 seconds. That drop wouldmean a reprime every 90 - 100 seconds, that is a bit too frequent, it MAY not be the accumulator but a dodgy seal on one of the EV valves or the clutch piston, but this will require a bay service of the actuator whats a bay service? if its just replacing an O ring then i can do that myself? once the solenoids and other removable parts are stripped off the actuator, is there anything else inside that can fail or need renewing. i have stripped the old actuator and all the O rings look ok. You haven't removed the pistons in that pic. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xyy81t 0 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 those are behind the big circlips then i guess, i didn't remove them for fear of breaking some sort of factory seal but will do it tomorrow, what should i look for to check their condition? is it like any other kind of piston, scoring etc? thanks for your help Smaky:bowdown: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xyy81t 0 Report post Posted November 2, 2011 I have fitted a new actuator today and its all back together ready for me to bleed, now when i took the old actuator off, it spat out some oil and then loads of air, so i obviously hadn't bled it properly. i ran the clutch bleed routine, EOL routine and actuator base adjustment. i notice the mention of an oil bleed screw which i have found but the system is fully pressurized and unscrewing it quite far does not cause any hissing or oil leaking. obviously i'm scared to undo it too far in case it fires off and twats me in the face! does it need unscrewing and how far do i go? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted November 2, 2011 There's no need to touch that screw, as long as you've done the routines and the rod is set right then all should be well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xyy81t 0 Report post Posted November 2, 2011 goodo, It is selecting gears ok so i guess time will tell if the issue returns, something that was different this time though was that the clutch bite was very jerky for the first few stop-start manoeuvres but has now settled down. i have the clutch rod adjusted correctly so does it learn the bite piont on the first running after having the battery disconnected for a while? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xyy81t 0 Report post Posted November 3, 2011 Well something's wrong. the clutch was really sharp this morning, letting it out to quick and pulling it back in, was kangarooing up the road, only does it for the first 2 minutes or so but if you've parked up its really difficult to manouvre gently out of a space. i checked the clutch rod length and ran all the calibration routines after changing the accumulator yesterday, i am out of ideas Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted November 4, 2011 Well something's wrong. the clutch was really sharp this morning, letting it out to quick and pulling it back in, was kangarooing up the road, only does it for the first 2 minutes or so but if you've parked up its really difficult to manouvre gently out of a space. i checked the clutch rod length and ran all the calibration routines after changing the accumulator yesterday, i am out of ideas Srart engine, stop engine, tun key to MAR, select 2nd gear, foot on brake and start engine, select 2nd, accelerate foot to floor until you reach 3000rpm then bring car to halt, stop engine, done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xyy81t 0 Report post Posted November 4, 2011 Srart engine, stop engine, tun key to MAR, select 2nd gear, foot on brake and start engine, select 2nd, accelerate foot to floor until you reach 3000rpm then bring car to halt, stop engine, done. thanks Smaky, you're a legend Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
