mr-mac

Also, worth considering... The older 156 momo leather (with badge embroidered in) seem to be a lot softer, less supportive and a lot less comfy on a run than the same seats without logo from a facelift 156 (so maybe the 147 ones are same as later ones).

Err one stainless exhaust and i'm fairly sure the v6 wouldn't need s badge so people know it's not a diesel hahahaha

I fitted 156 brembos and used 305mm gta/gtv discs with bracket altered from 155 v6 drawing. Also know an engineering guy in Greece who can make alloy brackets for 156 for any calliper/disk combo (think about £150 but super quality and very good alloy used - he also has an alfa so knows what he is up to. If you send him rotors of your choice he can even do a bell & bracket for you that will work together. (will look up his details if anyone interested. If I were doing it again i'd use bells/rotors I reckon or find suitable 310 discs that can be re-drilled with 156 hole pattern. Why? Well you will always leave a tiny but of pad not on disc if you use 305's as you can't mount calliper any closer. You will also likely need spacers in most 17's My choice of rotors would be wilwood do unltralite 32 hps in 12.19"x1.1" which is almost exactly 310x28 (you won't get bigger than 28mm wide in 166 calliper). http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorProd.aspx?itemno=160-12206 I think 166 callipers (great choice of pads due to scooby and evo) with custom alloy bells and brackets and the wilwood rotors would be an awesome setup. (even with brembo 305 discs and steel brackets i have it's a fair chunk lighter than std 156 brakes). John

Hi, Anyone got or seen dooorcards to fit a facelift 156? The late two tone ones where lower half a diff colour. I need a set for saloon that have black lower half Thanks

Other thing to keep in mind. My aux belt looked ok and wasn't that old but got a real interesting rythmic chirp that sounded like a bearing. It was belt, alternator on way out had obv overheated pulley so when stopped heat damaged, ever so slightly, the belt.. it shaved tiny bits of rubber of sides of V and compressed into bottom of V so it produced a rhythmic chirp just like a bearing. Just keep in mind if you get a similar issue after an alternator change

Just done job and thought i'd post best way as nobody seemed to know. Unbolt stabilizer bar at top of engine. Front pipe off (1st cat back) aids access to bolts. But of strong wood under sump and gearbox housing and jack nearish gearbox end of sump under the wood. Front two engine mounts off and drop engine carefully in jack which will tilt while thing right forward. Take off fuel filter and other things on firewall. Lastly you will need to take off one of PAS pipes from steering rack (stiff one with sheath over pipe that runs from rack to pipe that leads to front of engine bay). Unbolt alternator and it'll feed back then you'll be able to lift it right up back of enengine quite easily. Pop new one back in same way. (obv you'll need tensioner wheel off aux belt to aid fitting). Pop everything back together (mount bolts are easy enough, jack engine and pop in, may need to lever a tiny bit to line bolts with holes but not too much). John

20v passed

I used to find them a pain till i realised i was being too gentle. hammer (heavier is better) belt crap out of metal surrounding ball joint. Than a gentle tap up to see if loose (seeing as yours not attached to anything). even with claw hammer it only takes me 15-20 secs to free one now john

Err not exactly... lower hose can be trimmed to fit. Upper hose on other hand can't. However you trim it the angle at intake end and back of battery is wrong and it when you fit it will always bend hose and create a flat spot. Whether this effects performance or not I'm not sure. i just asked about top but samco want to do both. Another advantage is for lower hose the 20v doesn't need to detour to keep it away from bolt on gearbox cheers john

My 1.8ts is ok (155 2.5 v6 was a lovely revy lump and lots more fun than 1.8) but 20v is a different league... I was very lucky, picked up Jan 2012, 05 plate with about 90k for £1500 my other plan was a v6 and lpg it but a silly priced oil burner showed up. John

I'd have a gta if I could.. but console myself with great performance that even sounds good and looks a treat avg on computer which is close on mine is above 40

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See i cant afford 20-30mpg, some can, all i mean is by having an oil burner i can drive it like Alfa intended all day long (not saying choose one over a petrol). I could own a v6 or gta but it's sit in drive (no not driving and Alfa, never mind fast, is a damn site less Alfa than burning oil just disputing all the crap economy rubbish i read on lesser forums low to mid 30's lol something up with your car mate

What a 2.5??? Driven a 2.5 156 and owned 2x 155 v6's the 20v is considerably quicker (ignore 0-60) imagine rolling start and its silly quick.... and tbh i like to surprise the shit out of people not look like top dog (or I'd ve getting 200 a tank out a gta lol)... that's the way i roll pmsl

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For all the nay Sayers on mpg (and i see a lot sayin low-mid 30's.... Did a run to Aberdeen last night... basically 80-90 leptons per hour most of way apart from town driving either end and slow downs for slow overtakes and cameras/limit changes. Including a 10 mile tussle with an R8 (was delighted we got a totally empty bit of road as don't go too fast with others about).. think I actually surprised him as when he went to turn off he flashed and waved When I started car yellow light was already on... I drove 5mile popped in £20 and zero'd counter. So that would be 14.18 litre, or 3.11 uk gal. At end of journey yellow light just showed as coming back into my small town with 141 miles on counter. So that would make it 46.6mpg. well above that but happier to under quote rather than over quote as not brim to brim. Now try and do 46.6 in a v6 or even a TS at 80-90 with a tussle with an R8 ain't gonna happen. I don't want to get 50-60mpg though i can on a run. I want to be able to drive with a heavy foot as often as I can and in a petrol the same style of driving that gets me 400 plus from a tank in this gets me under 300 in a petrol. Often a lot under I could often get 250 or lower in most petrol engines cars I've owned. Yes I do give my cars a hard life lol. and as far as performance goes any car that gets some respect from an r8 is pretty damn quick John

Nice one Ben, I'll pop some ideas together and see what others think.

Smaky, thinking about putting a wee run together after Scottish Italian Car Day followed by a meal I even have a 5 berth caravan with full awning so could even organise cheapish overnight rain shelter if anyone travels for it. Alfisti - they would do they are off a 166 3.0 V6 with 305mm gta/gtv discs and kevlar pads. Going to relook at disks as imposs to get calliper in close enough to get pads quite fully over discs... Looking at wilwood 327mm rotors and alloy bells at mo though may just go 330 gta discs. Interim solution might be 166 discs with holes elongated to 5x98. John

Unplug maf and take it for a drive.... If it drives better MAF fecked if it drives worse MAF ok if it drives same good chance maf fecked as well

At a guess same as 16v ones (bout £60ish each) not a clue though as they havn't made them yet, i'm getting my set free and it's up to samco/stockists to price/sell them.

Welcome

Welcome in Ben, just joined the other day, I'm from tayport just over from dundee

Nice to see you arrive too Mark, quite impressed with friendly relaxed atmosphere so far

Will defo give you guys a shout in Jan for the 156 20v and 156 1.8TS see what you can do... though tbh be surprised if you'll knock much off as 310 fully comp on the 20v with only the £100 std excess at moment. however you seem to be doing well for others and plan on some more mods at some point so hopefully John

Hi spider95 its good to be in more friendly surroundings, thanks