AFLA

Was the shells. No. 3 embedded in the crank. Sold 2 days ago to an ex-alfa mechanic that dropped the sump on the spot and replaced it. Left me the remains of the shell for memories. He will replace the engine. I left Alfaland for a while. Will return in a couple of years either to a 70's GTV 2000 with a Nord or the new Julia. I miss the sele. Now that I have more time, I will launch my dream startup.

Got it. This is 2nd time. Last was 100K Km ago and I replaced engine from breakers. I am thinking shells and possible regrind. What would be the odds that I will need a regrind or a complete overhaul including top end? Is it likely I will get away with shells alone? Thanks Tuval

Managed to do it! no more flashing display, jumping gears and into neutral! Thanks Smaky!

Well I removed the battery and tray all right but the Selection Position Sensor on the back plate is way down there and in my way are the brake reservoir and thermostat piping... am I just shy of pushing my hand down there and working blindly on the torx screws? Or am I missing something? I could nearly do the same from the wheel arch where I removed the small cover but found it again tricky to jiggle my hand there and position the torx driver properly. What are the right tools? Am I just being thick here?

Hello, Is there a way to get at the Selespeed Selection Sensor and replacing it while the actuator is still attached to the gearbox and without dismantling the subframe and/or the actuator? I have a recurring fault with it and cleaning the connectors is not helping. Thanks in advance, Tuval

Thanks Smaky!

Hi All, Does anybody have a step by step description of how to remove and inspect the Inlet Manifold Gasket on a Twin Spark? I want to see if there is a leak there and if so, fix it using sealant/replace the gasket. Many thanks in advance! Tuval

You have sealed it with UHU Max Repair which is a glue - and not a sealant per se? Why? I understand that this glue is flexible - but is it better for this task than "regular" RTV Silicone sealant? And this is for the common variator solenoid seal leak? I am asking because I suspect a leak there and want to verify I use the proper material.

Hi Davo, I can't of course offer any help as Smaky's. but - I was able to sort out my p1742 issue (see my other thread on Selespeed jumping gears in same sub forum). I was able to cure it (at least temporarily as Smaky said) by spraying it liberally with elec contact spray till it was clean enough - I think that some of the potentiometer internal mechanism is exposed and this enables cleaning/flushing it to a degree (aside from cleaning the contact itself by unplugging it) - of course I would be happier to take it off, clean it properly and put it back again - but I don't have a lift and this is how far I was able to master at this point. It has now been 4 days and some 300 Miles... HTH

OK So after getting p1742 errors and many jumps to neutral including stuck in neutral more than once, disconnected the selection sensor and without taking it (difficult to get at) off sprayed it and the connection liberally with contact spray. EOL and she is fine. Also the selection values seem more stable now. U really scared me with that Smaky... I hope this is not it...

Hi All, Does anyone have a nice tip on how to remove the oil filter easily? I don't have a proper tool to do it. It won't budge and of course is very hot when I want to change the oil as I warm her beforehand. Can I loosen it a bit while cold and easier to handle, then go for a drive or is this a no-no? Can WD40 loosen it up? I don't want to stick a screwdriver in it and use it as a handle because I might ruin it and not be able to move her. Thanks, Tuval

Hi Davo, I am now getting the same symptoms as you are now including the P1742 error as well as at least one time the pump did not prime on door open. Still need to verify the actual values pressure values. I do hope the answer is as simple as a Potentiometer, Accumulator or Pump Motor Brushes which I can do alone... Tuval

Hi all, My selespeed is acting funny again. Gear number flashes on 1st and sometimes 2nd as well. Jumps gears either to N or all the way up to 3rd and then settle on 2nd. Also can show 3rd but actually be in 1st. Fluid is topped up. Pressure 55 max and drop to 45 is fine. Rod is 28.4 Pump primes for ~10 seconds on door open. No errors. Done EOL. No joy. Is this Pump? Relay? Accumulator? Weak Battery?

Well, I guess this is guesswork territory now... As by now have replaced upper and lower wishbones, drop links, ARB bushes and steering rack assembly. Really confusing ;-) Does it help if I feel the thump through my left foot on the brake paddle?

Replaced the ARB bushes but knock is still there. The shocks seem fine and do not clunk. Also the caliper is tight and so are the wheel bolts. However, when jacking up the left front and trying to move the wheel by grabbing the tire, I could sense and see a very slight movement when doing this side to side. This movement does not appear normal. Does this mean wheel bearing? Or can be some other component? Thanks! Tuval

Thanks Smaky! I will get my Indy (as it seems more than i can handle these days) on it when he replaces the bushes and examines the front left shock. There is only dust and brake powder back there. No oily stuff.

It has always been like that since the new (from used) engine 40,000 Km ago. No smoke whatsoever. Doesn't look like the breather. Replaced. Cleaned. No obvious signs of oil through there. So I reckon it's the inlet manifold gasket. Either that or just the by-design excessive tolerance? Is this for real and I should accept it as TS behavior?

Hi, Climate where I live is mostly 30-45 in summer, averaging 33. Winter is rarely below zero with an average 10. My daily drive is around 70 Km each way. Averaging 1,000 Km a week. Typically I don't thrash her too much but I do have the urge to accelerate and pass some beemers or the like. However, I rarely climb above 6500 or so and generally prefer low speed maneuvers as opposed to hi speed touring. I tend to service every 7000-8000 or so. Usually Agip (now ENI) 10w-60 full synthetic. I now am thinking maybe I should go with a lighter oil but am worried the hot climate will play havoc with my big ends. I once ruined one engine this way driving at 45 in the shade and thrashing her about midday (Italian tune up...). I do think this was a case of previous low oil (not by me!!!) and not the mere heat. She drinks some 750 ml every 1000 Km. What would you say is the best oil for her? Should I stick with 10w-60? Or move to 10w-40 semi (ENI brand is ester based) or even 5w-40 for a full synth ester based ENI? 10w-60 is fairly costly around here at some 50-60 GBP for 4 Ltr can.

How can I tell if it's the bushes or shocks? It is definitely from the left hand side and not the right (left hand drive car). The knock is when braking and near the end of the braking, right before the halt - kind of like in sync with the end of the nose dive travel. Happens on lighter/softer brakes and heavy/hard ones. Low and high speeds. Is there a test for this type of failure in shocks?

Now, after wishbones up and down and drop links replaced, I still have a knock (left front) on braking and a squeak while going over a speed bump AND turning, I guess this is the ARB bushes (you can freely move the ARB side to side). What do poly bushes give me over the standard fitment? Does it improve handling on its own?

Few weeks later, still smooth like butter. Touch wood. And the readings look ok and pump behaves nicely priming when it should.

Verify your new tyres are ok for the wheel width - should be 6.5". You might be able to put 225/50R16 and I think this is the correct overall diameter so doesn't affect speedometer. You should also check if you need spacers to avoid Rubbing them off on full lock and full shock travel. However, I don't know if this will actually improve handling/ride. Bigger experts here for this.

I will get a new reading soon. The gear changes are responsive and smooth as silk now.

Hi Smaky! So the problem is either gone or fixed! This is the story: Took her for a routine service oil and filters. As previously I discussed the pinch bolt theorem with my Indy, he agrees finally to inspect it. Up goes the Alfa, down goes the gearbox and the bolt is tighter than anything I have seen. However, the long pin/screw that goes from the robot to the box was removed in the process. Then, reinserted. As nothing was discovered, up the box goes back and I am left in same state of puzzlement and bruised ego as I has been last few months. During this time, Mishka, the 2nd mechanic on deck, decided to clean the underside of the engine and box with steaming hot water jet. Needless to say, when I wanted to take her out, reverse would not engage. Air dried in pressure the connector + contact cleaner but nothing. Zip. Zilch. Nada. Then, we hooked up and did a relearn. Now - we have done EOL countless times before. But this time - IT WORKED!!! I now get 1-2-3-4-5 (and R of course) without any glitch, hiccup or burp from the sele! And I am writing this 3 days after, as I am waiting in line for the MOT. I don't know what cured it and I sure hope it will not come back. But it's gone. Goooooooone!!!!!

well, more on this: I am waiting on my Indy to get a replacement actuator for now. to see if this fixes things. But have noticed yesterday and confirmed today with FES that the pump primes very frequently when the engine is on. When the key is at MAR, the priming is slow and is more than 5 minutes. When the engine is on the pump primes every 25 seconds (this morning, see FES graph). Is the reason behind this the failing actuator? I doubt this is the accumulator, as it behaves fine when engine off. Thanks, Tuval