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Maxonline

Newbie Facing Selespeed Problems...help!

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I am a new 2005 147 TS2.0 driver of 3 months. The car has been spending much of its time in the workshop. I have met some puzzling selespeed issues. Hopefully the folks can help.

 

here are the account of what had happened.

 

 

1 I have found that there is a crack sound when i gear shift. The mechanic swop out the gearbox (used) and at the same time change the clutch assembly.

 

The mechanic found that there is a crack at the high pressure hose where the rubber and clamp meets. the hose was removed and sent for replacement of the rubber hose. it was a recon job.

 

this when all hell starts to collapse.

 

2 The gear 1 and 2 was flashing without error code. I could not shift up the gear from gear 2. The mechanic changed out the accumulator and pump. these are all brand new. relays and contacts were cleaned. ecu and accuator was swopped with a donor car. very much on a trial and error method. I was able to drive for about 1 month until recently.

 

after the pump and accumulator changed there was no more flashing gear issues and gear shift was satisfactory BUT here comes the problems:

 

1 There was no priming activation at the opening of door, even on the 1st start in the morning.

2 The gear shift was weak.. eg. G2 to G3...you will see the "2" flashing once before its 3.

3 I can feel that the pump is priming every 30 second when the engine is running.

4 i am able to shift in all gear with MAR on but engine off

5 GEAR 5 is flashing after 2-3min of drive in that gear

 

what could has possibly happened?depressed.gif No error code at all....help!!!

 

Its still in the work shop...the mech says it may be clutch disk sensor....but i suspect a leak of pressure in the system....

 

Please see the idle graph and the driving graph...is the pressure holding well? any kind sould who can point out the root of the problems?

 

 

gear shift graph

 

delg6s.jpg

 

idle graph

 

i2vu5i.jpg

Edited by Maxonline

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Yes,

 

First f all, the accumulator needs to be replaced that's why the pressure graph is doing that...

 

And secondly the clutch rod length needs to be set (28mm - 28.5mm), then the gearbox needs to run the EOL calibration....

 

From what you described at the start this is all that was needed, I doubt there was anything wrong with the original box.

Edited by Smaky

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Yes,

 

First f all, the accumulator needs to be replaced that's why the pressure graph is doing that...

 

And secondly the clutch rod length needs to be set (28mm - 28.5mm), then the gearbox needs to run the EOL calibration....

 

From what you described at the start this is all that was needed, I doubt there was anything wrong with the original box.

 

the mech insisted that the pressure is normal as the pressure did not fall below 44bar. It was changed about 1 month ago. How does a healthy graph looks like?

Edited by Maxonline
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A healthy graph will take at least 10 minutes to drop from 55Bar to 44Bar, it will never go over 55Bar when recharging an you should be able to make 3 selections before the pump primes again.

 

Also with a faulty accumulator you'll have a "Pump relay stuck" code and a double beep every 30 seconds.

 

 

If you don't have these additional symptoms then I'd suspect the seals on the EV0 valve on the actuator need replacing.

 

 

This is all assuming that there is sufficient fluid in the system.

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A healthy graph will take at least 10 minutes to drop from 55Bar to 44Bar, it will never go over 55Bar when recharging an you should be able to make 3 selections before the pump primes again.

 

Also with a faulty accumulator you'll have a "Pump relay stuck" code and a double beep every 30 seconds.

 

 

If you don't have these additional symptoms then I'd suspect the seals on the EV0 valve on the actuator need replacing.

 

 

This is all assuming that there is sufficient fluid in the system.

 

Hi smaky thanks for your reply. As the pump does not prime when the door is open, what is the likely cause?

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Hi smaky

 

I was almost on tow 2 days back. it is behaving strangely with flashing 1 and 2 and sometimes, was not engaging gears.i found out that the new pump was not working. it is well running again after I had strap a cable tie over the big RELAY. I was able to drive flawlessly for 50km to the work shop.

 

the mech clean the contacts and change the relay.

 

the graph after the relay clean looks like this :

 

engine on idle mode

 

18hi1h.jpg

 

There is an improvement of the pressure retention as shown on the 2nd peak of about 6 minutes. the 1st and 3rd looks strange.

 

Driving

 

do58op.jpg

 

2 gear shift to one activate one pump.

 

MAR on without engine running

25u47xy.jpg

 

there is 3 gear shift before the pump is activated. able to shift up and down all gears.

 

It greeted me the next morning with very short door priming...less then 3sec.... before the relay clean, it was dead.

 

 

 

I was able to drive for a day without any problem. I thought that all the previous issue has be solved.

 

 

This morning the GEAR 5 started flashing again after 10min of driving on the highway. there is no problem shifting in all gears.

 

Smaky, is there any problem with the graph/pressure? What are the suspected culprit? my mechanic suspect its wiring problems.

Edited by Maxonline

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I'd recommend the endplate of the gearbox be removed and the area checked for debris and cleaned out, about .5l of oil will come out during this so make sure you top it up after, it's also a good idea to check the drain plug too, any massive chunks on that and it's time to take the gearbox off again.

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I have put through about 2000km after the incident and nothing much except the flashing 5. I can drive as per normal. I may leave it as it is for the time being. The country which I live limits the car's life to 10 years. Its on its 9th and have 1 more year to go.

 

I am very afraid that I would fall into the endless dark hold again.

 

this morning, the dash is beeping "left side light failure" when ever I press the breaks!!!!

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That would be because you either have a blown brake light or the bulb holders plug needs a clean up.

 

Arhhh...i am pulling my hair off... I realised that if i turn on the lights and i was able to drive with no "left side light failure" beep...

 

But today i gave me another beep this time is " break light failure"!!

 

After that i cannot engage reverse gear!!!

 

I try cycling the gear with the engine off but was only able to reach gear 4!

 

What happened!! Its driving me crazy!

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Some updates. I went to the work shop this morning. The mechanic found out the clutch rod is only 12.XXmm. I proclaimed that it should be 28-28.5mm.

 

He show me this on the ALFAOBD. The ALFAOBD show that the push rod range is from 17.68-19.32. He later adjusted to 18.018mm.<img%20src=

 

The lost of reverse gear was solved but while I was driving on high way, there was twice that gear 2 skipped to gear 4. Even if it changed successfully from 2 to 3 there was a lag/delay. Gear 4 was reluctant and missed to go into gear 5. can feel that it is trying very hard to get itself to G5.

 

There is also a "crak" sound when I change from 3 to 4.

 

The "left light failure" is sill there.

 

Is the cutch rod perimeter correct?

 

GClIVRW.jpg

Edited by Maxonline

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New updates + new problems

 

I thought can live with the "left side light failure" and "break light failure" (when headlight is in "on"). The workshop inspected all lights and found no faults.They replaced bulbs which they think its faulty.

 

since the lights error, I notice that no matter how hard I rev on gear 1....its like limited to 30km/h.

 

This morning when I start the car....pump prime as usual when I open the door. after some driving I was greeted with SELESPEED SYS FAILURE and VDC SYSTEM ERROR.

 

the error read was "can bus error"

 

what is going on??? help!

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You are most likely suffering from faulty connections. As For the rod length, Smaky is 100% correct about the clutch rod length, AlfaOBD just calculates it differently. As it stands your clutch rod length is set correctly now.

Baz

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