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Saabretooth

Engine Cutting Out During Clutching In + Braking. And Can't Hot Start

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Having this really weird issue.

 

Engine just cuts out when I brake hard, clutch in and shifting down going into a turn. Can't figure out what's wrong.

 

Am narrowing it down to

a loose wire

Weak fuel pump

Weak Fuel Pressure regulator

Weak Master clutch pump (I think when I clutch in to change gear, the pump didn't fully disengage the clutch.) happens to feel like engine rpms are dropping and then revs up again to a normal idle even when its clutched in, ie disengaged.

 

Slave Clutch pump has been changed 2 months ago.

 

On top of that, I CANNOT hot start the car if I turn the key, wait for diagnostics to complete, then crank... no starter cranking action at all!

BUT if I just fast crank start it, it sparks to life, without having to go through the diagnostics.

 

Smaky, I need your help... its irritating the shit out of me....

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Plug it in and check for fault codes, but this sounds like either a bad earth to the gearbox or the crank sensor is failing.

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They found some very wet plugs. ....

They are only 30k km old

 

 

buvy4ade.jpg

Edited by Saabretooth

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Yes. It was running fine till I changed out the throttle body from 84mm to 78 mm diameter. And intake piping too.

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Edited by Saabretooth

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Cause my mech mixed it up. I was supposed to get the 78 mm TB and my bust buddy, 84 mm.

 

None of us knew any better until we did a comparison after our was installed. Which by then I had it mapped.

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

 

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Actually, I thought the ECU had a wide enough tolerance to adjust for the variance.

 

In anycase, the mech at another workshop narrowed it down to to possible vacuum leak or brake pump issues for the engine dying off under braking + clutching in.

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

 

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Did you know it's proven that once the throttle body throat is larger than the inlet ducts there is no benefit in fitting a larger one???

 

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That still doesn't matter, if you still have standard inlet ducts and valve sizes then there is no way it will improve anything.

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The plenum throat is much bigger.

I had the option for bigger valves. Not sure what you meant by inlet ducts though.

 

My experience is that the peak hp and torque isn't going to be much different from a well tuned standard TB and plenum.

 

But I find that the torque comes in earlier and smoother, and over a bigger spread of rpm.

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

 

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Smaky, on that topic, I have access to 46mm inlet pipes that would be part of what you suggested.

 

Which makes me think that I would also have to bore the inlets on the engine side as well to match the 46mm piping.

Anything else to take note of?

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Am now on CF2 with equal length pipes which is about 2.5" up to the stock cats

After which is connected to a Novitec silencer and a set of Novitec Quads

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Smaky, I had the tune checked, it did not affect the engine dying. I'm going to strip out the Cam position Sensor to see if its worn or whatever it is that causes the engine to die on me.

 

And now its having trouble restarting after a drive, especially those short slow traffic drives where the engine bay is really hot. would need it to take about 2-3 hours for it to cool down first before I can restart it again. Definitely nothing to do with the tune.

 

 

 

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