Guide - How To 'detail' Your Alfa

[orgigeorgie 0]

Ok so this is a ‘small’ tutorial to get you all started with some detailing. I will cover in some detail however I will do my best to avoid making it daunting.

 

I’m actually a student engineer who did this as a personal hobby now I’ve started my own business to help me through the last 2 years. I am by no means and expert, there are many of those on the internet. I’m still learning and am more than happy to be corrected. I do not wish to make millions off this either, but detailing someones car who is passionate is far more rewarding than someone who has no idea. The following is what I have learnt over doing many cars and educating myself.

 

I’d like to credit a member from another forum shiny_car - whoes tutorial helped me get started.

 

Detailing, what is it?

 

Lets be honest, when we discuss detailing we mean polishing. Removing all the swirl marks and scratches from the surface and hopefully being left with something of presentable quality. However the entire process before polishing is where the true results come from.

 

The problem that most experience when undertaking detailing is simply how long this takes. Trust me it gets easier and the trick is maintenance. Will talk more about that later. Focus on the early steps and the rest falls into place.

Fig 1. Swirl Marks exhibit A

 

Fig 2. Swirl Marks exhibit B - notice the 3 buckets.

 

 

Step 1 - Rinse

 

Rinse the car. Some may say this is redundant but it takes about 2 min and makes the job later on easier. A simple pressure rinse will dislodge a lot of the loose dirt, wet the surface and allow step 2 to do a better job. Thats it!

 

Step 2 - Soak

 

This is where we start getting into some specialized equipment. If you have a pressure washer, invest in a foaming lance and splash out on some foaming agent. The idea behind the foaming agent is to suspend as much of the dirt as possible before you even lay a hand on your car.

 

Ideally you’d like to have an overcast day and it be cool but I live in Australia so sometimes thats hard (I start at 7am before the sun has had a chance to rape us).

Whilst waiting I tend to spray the wheels with decontaminant and that sits for about 10 or so min.

After 15 minutes or so (you’ll be able to tell, it becomes very patchy) rinse the car down. You’ll be very surprised how much of the dirt has actually lifted off.

 

Time taken for 156: 20min (including soak time)

 

Fig 3. Foaming agent after 6 or so min.

 

Fig 4. Half done 156.

 

Step 3 - Wash via 2 bucket method

 

The 2 bucket method is the key step here. First the why then the how.

 

Why: When washing with a single bucket the dirt is always sitting in a localized spot. As you go to reload your mitt you’ll essentially be loading it with water, which has the dirt you’ve just taken off suspended in it! Then you’re sloping it back on your car, zealously wiping it round and round. So now you know where your swirl marks are from.

 

How: 2 Buckets both filled with water, one with soap and the other hopefully with a grit guard. You load your mitt with the soapy clean water and rinse off in the clean water and grit guard. This does not guarantee that you wont have any dirt still on your mitt but at least you’re minimizing the chances of you smearing everyones road grime on your prized alfa paint. Don’t be stingy with water, if its filthy change it. If you want to save water, don’t detail your car.

 

Technique: Avoid drawing circles with the mitt. Try unidirectional lines, overlapping about 50% (similar to spray painting). Why? Well there is definitely dirt on your car so by you going back and forth you’re effectively taking the dirt for a joy ride across your paint. Fun for the dirt, not for you.

 

Products: Do not use a sponge. A sponge is great for soaking water and thats it. It will take the dirt off your car, allow it to sit on its surface and thats it. The Microfibre/lambswool mitt is where its at. The fibers lift the dirt off the paint and whilst you’re entertaining the dirt across your paint they aren’t actually doing any damage.

 

Time taken for a 156: 30min

Edited June 28, 2013 by orgigeorgie

[orgigeorgie 0]

Step 4: Claying

 

So far with me? Excellent. Claying is what every one talks about - but no one knows how to do it. Its easy. The clay bar is exactly that, a piece of clay. Don’t stress about where you get it from there are about 2 places in the world that actually produce the clay and distribute it to the famous name companies.....essentially they are all the same. Allegedly the best shit comes from Japan. Up to you to decide. The idea behind the clay bar is it is slightly abrasive and as you run it across the paint surface its meant to pick up all your contaminants.

 

You will need a clay bar and a lubricant. A lubricant can be a dedicated product, quick detailer (liquid wax) or if you’re a cheapskate some soapy water. I find QD and dedicated lubricant are on par - soapy water works ok but really why bother? Detailing on a budget is false economy. You want to restore your paint do it properly and spend the extra $15 on QD. Its like saying I’ve run out of my favorite motor oil - let me just go and conjure up some shit to produce something that I feel is suitable.

 

Mould the clay bar so it fits your hand nicely. Saturate the local area that you’d like to clay and give your clay bar a good squirt too with your chosen concoction. Now just move it at a medium pace lightly over the surface. You’ll feel some resistance. Keep lubricating and claying until you feel minimal resistance. Check your clay bar often to see the dirt (remember about running the dirt across your paint). Just remold it till its clean again and use. I effectively get 2 cars out of a clay bar. Some detailers can get 5. Meh, kudos to them.

 

Do the whole car and avoid dropping the clay bar on the ground. If you do, you’re fucked...nah just kidding - go wash it, you’ll be right. A good check you can you is put your hand in a plastic bag and feel the surface. It should be smooth. If not go over it again.

 

That’s claying. Simple. Aim to have a cool surface when doing to make your life easier.

 

Rinse the car off - QD leaves shit on the car - most of it the contaminants you’ve tried to remove.

 

Fig 5. Dirty clay bar - now you remould it.

 

Time for a 156: under 1 hour.

 

Step 5 - Drying

 

Listen carefully, this is easy so don’t stress but this is where people make mistakes. Dump your chamois and equip yourself with a WAFFLE WEAVE cloth. These are designed to lift dirt off and are extremely absorbent. The chammy is a leather and just inferior in every way to the waffle weave - try it and you’ll see. By this stage you shouldn’t have any dirt on the car but still take precaution and attention to detail.

 

Ideally dab the surface to absorb the water. Now if you haven’t got all week to sit there dabbing, simply run your cloth lightly in one direction across the paint take the water off. Once the cloth is wet - well its wet and less effective. I use 2 to dry the car.

 

Some people like to use compressed air to dry the car. thats fine if you have that sort of thing, however I don’t recommend using a leaf blower. It can be great in a clean workshop but otherwise the blow pattern is too wide and you risk lifting up all the shit off the ground and plastering it on your clean car.

 

http://t0.gstatic.co...467RB5Jt9GZ0PgQ

Fig 6: Waffle weave - just google it.

 

Time for a 156: 15min

 

Step 6: Optional - ‘hand polish’

 

Claying does a fantastic job, but this simply just finishes it off. Grab a hand polish with no fillers and gently rub on the car. Working small patches. Buff off. Feel the paint mate, smooth like glass Thats the idea. Ready to start ‘detailing’.

 

The car should well and truly be undercover after step 4. This step isn’t critical but I feel it makes the difference.

 

Time for a 156: 40min

[orgigeorgie 0]

Step 7: Machine Polishing

Unfortunately with modern paints its almost impossible to remove swirl marks by hand. If you have - you’re a boss or you’ve filled them with silicone. You really need a machine polisher. Everyone will try sell you their machine and everyone else will tell you nah mate just add an attachment to your angle grinder and be a mad c**t. Really - just buy whats in your budget. You want a Rotary polisher that oscillates. No amount of kilowatts and weight saving handles are going to make you good. You’re most likely going to get SFA results the first time because your technique sucks but at least you wont ruin your paint.

Put it this way - I’m a ‘professional’ but my machine is only about $350 compared to some of the $800 ones available.

Pads and Polishes:

There is SOOOOOO much information about this topic that it just confuses me thinking about it. Combinations of the 2 are ridiculous, like its a science or something (no offense to the scientist detailers). Tip: Assume your paint is very soft unless proven otherwise. Meaning start with a fine polish and finishing pad on the rear 3/4. Does it work? are you happy with it? No? Move on to cutting compound. Still no? Move on to medium pad with cutting compound...that’ll do most.

Don’t be scared to experiment and learn. It’s what this is for. Learning, you wont ruin your car (well you might, I take no responsibility) so have a play around with combo’s and see what works.

Pads - I personally use Hexlogic and Lake Country.

Polish - Meguires or Menzerna. No real allegiance to either.

How to start:

3 pea size drops on your pad. Now dab the panel where you’re going to be working. I work 60cm by 30cm (2ft x 1ft) area. Low speed and just move the polish around. This is called priming the pad. Slowly increase the speed moving back and forth then up and down and repeat. Stop and have a look. Clean some of the polish off. Has it done what you expected? No? Try again and see if it just needed some more work. If its doing nothing change combo.

No point over working the polish. Once its done thats it. Infact when you overwork it, it turns in a fine power and that shit goes EVERYWHERE! That takes weeks of cleaning on its own. It no longer does its job when overworked. You’re wasting energy and creating a mess, better to underwork it. Do a panel at a time. Then I swap pads and polishes for a fine combo and do it all again to get that really nice smooth shiny finish.

So lets see this visually. What are swirls? Well they are simply fine scratches in your paint. And how do we get rid of them? We remove layers of clear coat! So theoretically there is a limit to how many times this can be done (attention: eBay ad’s who claim they polish the car weekly/monthly...you either have a back to bare metal shell or you have no idea what you’re talking about) so do it right the first few times

So the cutting compound removes a layer and the finishing compound smooths out the surface so it gives a mirror like finish (its ok it took me 3 cars to get this concept - love you mum and dad). For larger scratches thats up to you. You can round off the edges by going over it with a fine finish making it less obvious or you can keep trying till you eventually get to the primer (don’t be a cowboy if its very deep live with it - or get a respray/touchup).

Clean the car with some Isopropyl alcohol once finished. This removes polish residue readying the paint for wax.

 

Fig 7. Taping the car up before polishing - 3M tape is the best. DONT use masking tape.

Fig 8. Busting me chops on Fiat coupe. Very rare in Aus.

Time for an alfa 156: 4-5 hours

Step 8 Waxing and Protecting

This now where you can choose the plethora of waxes available. Everything will work, some better than others but its better than having nothing on there. Wax and Sealant are a sacrificial layer. Remember that. No wax will give you gloss and deep shine - thats the polishing that does that. It simply enhances that (the effect is gone in about a week of daily driving).

This is what I do. Its by no means the best but I find it works and I do it well and get great results.

Apply artificial sealant by hand (and foam pad) to the whole car but don't buff off. Now you will do a little trick called spotting in. Grab your QD and lightly spray the whole panel. Using your sealant again apply a second layer. This makes the layer far more even and nice application. Once you do the whole car buff off. If you’re kinda messy like me, tape off the car and all its plastic bits that you don’t want waxed.

On dark cars, I apply another layer of Carnuba natural wax and spot it in that really makes the car glow. Run your clean fingers across the paint, its should feel like a mosquito will do the splits if it lands on it.

Whats the difference? Well artificial sealant is made in a Lab and actually forms a very hard coat on your car that supposedly lasts for up to 12 months (pfft yeh ok, maybe in a land where the conditions are 25deg every day and no rain). I prefer them as they offer the best protection, not a lot of shine and gloss - but protection. Thats what this is about. Carnuba - wiki has a good explanation and is a natural wax that supposedly last 6months (LOL! try like 3) but adds a lot of shine. So why not best of both worlds?

Congratulations. You’ve successfully ‘detailed’ 75% of your car. This guide is now very long and I hope you have managed to gain something from it. It isn’t a bible and I am more than happy for people to discuss alternatives.

If proven popular I can write a guide for leather car, window care (pending as I’ve discovered a new method thanks to another alfa member), wheel care and most importantly MAINTENANCE. My 156 was polished once in 2011 - I challenge you to find a swirl mark.

I wish you all the best of luck with your detailing and please, there is no such thing as a dumb question. If you’re in melbourne I am more than happy to show you how its done (im going to be fuckin broke).

Fig 9. Alfa 147 Bonnet after 2 stages

Fig 10. Alfa 147 bonnet 1 stage

Fig 11. Focus bonnet - 1 stage notice the difference in the shine of paint. The alfa black is VERY DEEP!

Fig 12. NO SWIRLS! wooh!

Time for a 156: 1-2 hours

Total is about 8-10 hours

Edited June 28, 2013 by orgigeorgie

[orgigeorgie 0]

So guys I hope this is what you had in mind. Again for more detail visit my website and under know how I explain a lot more detail in slightly more professional language:) Again good luck and ask away!

 

George

 

Website!

Edited June 28, 2013 by orgigeorgie

[Bigdar 62]

Very comprehensive George :eek:

 

I'm willing to let you practise on mine if you want, although I'm thinking there could be shipping involved ?

 

[northernbstard 84]

Very comprehensive George :eek:

 

I'm willing to let you practise on mine if you want, although I'm thinking there could be shipping involved ?

 

 

We could chip in Biggy ...How much is a flight from Oz these days ?

 

I reckon he could do a car a day easy peasy

[smiffy 99]

Wow!!! That's awesome funny too

 

Right need a polishing mop thing

 

 

[orgigeorgie 0]

I have met a few car detailers, some fantastic and some cowboys.

 

A good detailer:

Will explain the process to you.

Will carry a paint gauge and measure paint thickness before diving straight in.

Will avoid talking shop (he may say that this product is more suited to ones car but won't push for something you wont need).

Will let you sit and watch.

Will take time and patience to do the job properly

Will understand when someone is hesitant about letting a stranger manoeuvre their car. (you'll be surprised how much of an issue this can be)

Will educate you on how to maintain your car afterwards.

 

No disrespect to other detailers but there are some people who are in it for some interesting reasons. Be confident in who you hire if you choose to not go the DIY route. I tend to work 12 hour days not because I don't want spend 3 days on a car perfecting and charging $$$ but because the gain from the 2 days is about 10% more than the 1st day. Education and maintenance is more important that outright jobs every year.

 

Also a trick of the trade is to sting people with extras. Things like glass care, interior care chrome polishing, glass polishing etc etc are generally charged on top so double check that! He might do it and say 'oh i feel like you needed this and that..."I fell for that once and never again.

 

G

[Guest]

I have met a few car detailers, some fantastic and some cowboys.

 

A good detailer:

Will explain the process to you.

Will carry a paint gauge and measure paint thickness before diving straight in.

Will avoid talking shop (he may say that this product is more suited to ones car but won't push for something you wont need).

Will let you sit and watch.

Will take time and patience to do the job properly

Will understand when someone is hesitant about letting a stranger manoeuvre their car. (you'll be surprised how much of an issue this can be)

Will educate you on how to maintain your car afterwards.

 

No disrespect to other detailers but there are some people who are in it for some interesting reasons. Be confident in who you hire if you choose to not go the DIY route. I tend to work 12 hour days not because I don't want spend 3 days on a car perfecting and charging $$$ but because the gain from the 2 days is about 10% more than the 1st day. Education and maintenance is more important that outright jobs every year.

G

 

Superb walkthrough Georgie

 

That bit sounds a bit like my job though lol

 

I have met a few web designers/developers, some fantastic and some cowboys.

 

A good designer/developer:

Will explain the process to you.

Will know his code and plan his pixels before diving straight in.

Will avoid talking shop (he may say that this product is more suited to ones website but won't push for something you wont need).

Will let you sit and watch.

Will take time and patience to do the job properly

Will understand when someone is hesitant about letting a stranger access their server. (you'll be surprised how much of an issue this can be)

Will educate you on how to maintain your website afterwards.

 

No disrespect to other web designers/developers but there are some people who are in it for some interesting reasons. Be confident in who you hire if you choose to not go the DIY route. I tend to work 12 hour days not because I don't want spend 3 days on a design perfecting and charging £££ but because the gain from the 2 days is about 10% more than the 1st day. Education and maintenance is more important than outright jobs every year.

W

 

[LJ_GQV 115]

nice write up, thanks for sharing

[northernbstard 84]

Just used the polisher I got last week for the 1st time and it's gone straight back in the 'kin box

 

What a waste of time and effort, 'kin thing only succeeded in taking out whatever filler they'd put in the gouge

on the front grille surround that I never knew was there

[K9d 108]

Your not supposed to use sandpaper on it.

 

Did you use the woolpad ?

What polish did you use ?

[northernbstard 84]

Woolpad ...I ain't that daft

 

Used Simoniz protection car wax cos it don't leave my carbon vinyl smeared with white residue

 

Applied it with a microfibre cloth then used the polisher to buff it up

 

Tried it 1st off with the fattest part of the pad and it did fuck all so used it on the angle jangle using the edge of

the pad which started to buff it slightly.

Got pissed off trying to buff up the bonnet and tried it on a smaller area just above the chrome grill finials wich

just took out whatever the stealer had used to camouflage the gouge in it

 

Used elbow grease in the end to buff the car up but can see the film ..Tomorrow I'm breaking out the palm sander

[K9d 108]

I think your getting polishing and waxing mixed up, they are very different processes.

[northernbstard 84]

I think your getting polishing and waxing mixed up, they are very different processes.

 

Sometimes I use our Gerts Mr Sheen or Pledge polish but I get the same shit haze as the wax ?

[K9d 108]

Polish is an abrasive product that is designed to correct defects in paint, light scratches, swirl marks etc it has no protective properties.

Wax is a protective coating that will protect the shine produced by the polishing.

 

Polish should all be removed after it has done its job, wax should be buffed to a smooth layer.

 

I've had the same haze problems with wax on a black car and I think the problem is too much wax, I haven't had chance to re-wax from fresh to test this theory out, but internet opinion seems to support it.

[orgigeorgie 0]

Sometimes I use our Gerts Mr Sheen or Pledge polish but I get the same shit haze as the wax ?

 

Hi mate, I think you are getting them mixed up. If I read correctly your bonnet is vinyl wrapped? Im sorry to inform you but your polisher wont do anything on vinyl wrap - especially if its matt.

 

The polisher is simply a tool that takes off a layer of clear coat. I should have included this in the tutorial.

 

 

 

There are other methods to clean your vinyl bonnet but don't polish it. And don't buff of WAX with a polisher either - its just as easy by hand and a lot less hassle.

 

As k9d mentioned a polish is an abrasive that shaves a layer off the clear. Your vinyl has no clear so really you're just scratching it. Don't stress though - its possible to hide those marks temporarily via waxes with fillers and what not.

 

The haze effect is indeed too thick and uneven layer of polish. If you spot in you'll minimize that effect. A possible remedy is to spray QD on the hazed spot and buff.

 

G

[northernbstard 84]

The vinyl is only on the lower half of the car not the bonnet and I'm only polishing the painted panels

as I use another cleaner for the vinyl..

 

I'll get the compound cleaner on it later and start again , I've been washing then just waxing, so what polish

do you recommend ?

[orgigeorgie 0]

Ahh I see. You will need to remove all the wax before you begin polishing.

 

Do you mind posting a pic of your car?

 

I am not loyal to any polish as I still haven't found one that does wonders for me. Its all the same amount of work. I use Menzerna.

 

SF500 is for cutting (very course)

SF2500 Is a light cut (for swirls)

SF4000 is a finishing polish for that shine.

 

I will try Meguires 105 and 205 next as I have heard good things about them but are unavailable in Aus.

[Bigdar 62]

This 'detailing' you all speak of, is this what used to be called 'cleaning the car'?

[northernbstard 84]

Ahh I see. You will need to remove all the wax before you begin polishing.

 

Do you mind posting a pic of your car?

 

I am not loyal to any polish as I still haven't found one that does wonders for me. Its all the same amount of work. I use Menzerna.

 

SF500 is for cutting (very course)

SF2500 Is a light cut (for swirls)

SF4000 is a finishing polish for that shine.

 

I will try Meguires 105 and 205 next as I have heard good things about them but are unavailable in Aus.

 

Right ...I've just used Meguires ultimate compound followed by

 

Megs deep crystal polish topped with Megs deep crystal carnuba wax and I'm knackered

 

Looking good but I'll be interested to see what it's like when it's overcast or in a few days !

 

 

 

[Gaz 29]

I'd send it back and ask for a full refund. Look what it did to your bumpers and wheel arches

[Bigdar 62]

[K9d 108]

It looks like that stupid city rover or metro what ever it was with the stupid massive plastic bumpers.

[Gaz 29]

Rover Streetwise

 

Yes i did know that